Should I Size Up or Down in Leather Shoes? A Practical Guide for Ireland

When you’re shopping for leather shoes in Ireland, the weather doesn’t just affect your coat - it affects your feet too. Rain, damp pavements, and chilly winters mean your shoes need to last, feel comfortable, and fit just right. But here’s the real question: should you size up or down in leather shoes? It’s not a one-size-fits-all answer, especially when you’re walking the cobbled streets of Galway, commuting through Dublin’s city centre, or hiking the Burren in winter boots.

Why Leather Shoes Behave Differently in Ireland

Leather isn’t just material - it’s a living thing. In Ireland’s damp climate, leather absorbs moisture. That means it can stretch over time, especially if you’re wearing them daily on wet ground. A pair that feels snug on a dry day in Cork might feel tight by week three in Limerick. But here’s the catch: not all leather is the same. Full-grain leather from Irish tanneries - like those used by Clarks or local brands such as Irish Leather Company - holds its shape better than cheaper, split-leather imports. If you’re buying from a Dublin shop like Shoe Warehouse or Clery’s, ask what type of leather they use. A good salesperson will tell you.

Most people assume leather stretches evenly. It doesn’t. The toe box expands, the instep loosens, but the heel stays put. That’s why a shoe that feels fine when you first try it on might pinch your heels after a month of rain-soaked walks. If you’re planning to wear thick wool socks - and you will, in Ireland - you need room. But too much room, and your foot slides, causing blisters and bruised toenails.

What the Experts in Ireland Say

I spoke with Sean O’Brien, a cobbler in Temple Bar with over 30 years of repairing shoes for locals. He’s seen thousands of pairs come through his door. His rule? “If you’re buying a classic oxford or brogue - the kind you wear to work or to the pub - go half a size up. Not a full size. Half. Then wear them with the socks you’ll actually use for a week indoors before taking them out in the wet.”

He’s not alone. At John Rocha Footwear in Dundrum, staff are trained to measure feet in both length and width. Why? Because Irish feet aren’t uniform. A 2023 study by the Irish Foot Health Association found that 68% of Irish adults wear shoes that are too narrow, especially women over 40. That’s partly because many still buy online without trying on. And in Ireland, where many still shop locally - from Boots in Limerick to Dee’s Shoes in Derry - trying on is part of the ritual.

When to Size Up

You should size up if:

You’re buying brogues or derbies - the classic Irish work and social shoes - especially if they’re handmade by a local artisan like McCarthy & Sons of Kilkenny.
You plan to wear thick wool socks, especially during winter months.
You’re buying for walking - whether it’s the Wicklow Way, the Dingle Peninsula, or daily errands on wet pavement.
Your toes feel squashed when you stand up in the store. If you can’t wiggle them, you’re too tight.
You’re buying from a brand known for narrow lasts, like Church’s or Edward Green - even if they’re imported.

One woman in Belfast told me she bought a size 6 in a pair of Allen Edmonds because they looked perfect - but after two weeks of rain, her little toe was bruised. She returned them, swapped for a 6.5, and now wears them every day to her job at the Northern Ireland Museum. “I didn’t think I needed the extra half,” she said. “But the Irish winter doesn’t care what you thought.”

Two leather shoes on wet tile — one too tight, one with proper toe space, wool sock beside them.

When to Size Down

Sizing down is rare - but it happens. Go half a size smaller if:

You’re buying a slip-on loafers or Chelsea boots made from very stiff, unlined leather - like some Clarks Desert Boots or Red Wing styles.
You have narrow feet and find most shoes gape at the heel.
You’re buying a pair meant for summer or indoor use - say, for a wedding in a hotel ballroom in Kilkenny.
The shoe has a padded insole and you’re not planning to wear thick socks.

One man from Tralee bought a size 10 in a pair of Dr. Martens because he thought “leather stretches.” He ended up with blisters and had to get them relaced. “I didn’t know they’d tighten up after a few days,” he said. “Turns out, the rubber sole didn’t flex, and the leather just held on.”

How to Test Fit in an Irish Shoe Store

Most Irish shoe shops have the same setup: a wooden bench, a few mirrors, and a salesperson who’ll ask if you’re “going to the races” or “walking the hills.” Here’s how to test properly:

Try on both shoes. Always. Feet are rarely the same size.
Wear the socks you plan to wear daily - wool socks for winter, thin cotton for summer.
Stand up. Walk around. Don’t just sit and wiggle your toes.
Check the heel: if it lifts when you walk, the shoe is too long.
Press your thumb into the toe box. You should have about a thumb’s width of space. Not more. Not less.
Ask for the shoe’s last size. A “D” last is standard. A “C” is narrow. A “E” is wide. If you’re unsure, ask.

Some stores, like Foot Locker in Limerick or Shoe Zone in Galway, now use digital foot scanners. They’re accurate - but they don’t account for how leather behaves over time in damp conditions. Use them as a guide, not a final answer.

Elderly cobbler testing shoe fit in a Dublin shop, chalkboard reads 'Half Size Up for Wet Weather'.

What Happens If You Get It Wrong?

Buy too small? You’ll get blisters, bunions, or ingrown toenails. You’ll hate your shoes. You’ll wear them anyway - because they look good - and end up in a podiatrist’s office in Cork or Dublin.

Buy too big? Your feet slide. Your arches collapse. You’ll develop plantar fasciitis. Or worse - you’ll slip on a wet step in Galway and twist your ankle. I’ve seen it happen.

And here’s the kicker: returns are harder in Ireland than you think. Many independent shops - especially outside Dublin - don’t take returns on footwear unless it’s faulty. Even chains like Clarks or Boots require tags, original box, and proof of purchase. If you bought them online and they don’t fit? You’re out of luck.

The Irish Leather Shoe Rule of Thumb

Here’s what works for most people in Ireland:

For dress shoes (brogues, oxfords): Half a size up from your normal size.
For walking boots (like Clarks or Red Wing): Half a size up, with room for thick socks.
For loafers and slip-ons: Your regular size - unless they’re stiff.
For wide feet: Always go for a “E” last. Don’t settle for “D.”
For narrow feet: Try “C” last or brands like John Lobb - they’re harder to find but worth it.

And always, always test them on a hard floor. Not the carpeted area near the fitting room. The tile. The one near the door. That’s what you’ll be walking on in Dublin, in Belfast, in Galway - wet, cold, and unyielding.

Final Tip: Let the Leather Breathe

Irish leather shoes don’t need polish every week. They need air. After wearing them, leave them in a dry spot - not the hallway, not the bathroom. A shoe tree helps. A cedar one from Irish Leather Company costs €18 and lasts years. If you live in a humid house in Waterford or Louth, a dehumidifier near your shoes isn’t overkill - it’s practical.

Leather shoes in Ireland aren’t just about style. They’re about survival. The right fit means you’ll walk farther, stand longer, and keep your feet dry. And in this country, that’s not a luxury - it’s the difference between getting through the day and being stuck on the couch.

Should I size up in Irish-made brogues?

Yes, always go half a size up in traditional Irish brogues. These shoes are often made with full-grain leather and a narrow last. Even if they feel snug in the store, they’ll stretch slightly over time - especially with the damp Irish weather. Add your wool socks when trying them on, and make sure your toes have room to move without pressing against the front.

Can I return leather shoes if they don’t fit in Ireland?

It depends. Major chains like Clarks, Boots, or Shoe Warehouse accept returns within 30 days if you have the receipt, original box, and the shoes haven’t been worn outside. Independent shops often have a “no return on footwear” policy unless faulty. Always ask before buying - and if you’re unsure, buy from a store with a good return policy. Online purchases from Irish retailers usually follow the EU’s 14-day cooling-off period, but you pay return shipping.

Do Irish feet differ from other European feet?

Yes. A 2023 study from the Irish Foot Health Association found that Irish adults have wider forefeet and shorter toes on average than British or German counterparts. This means many standard European lasts (like a “D” last) still feel too narrow. Look for brands that offer “Irish fit” or “Celtic last” - some local makers like McCarthy & Sons and Irish Leather Company design specifically for this shape.

Is it better to buy leather shoes online or in-store in Ireland?

In-store, every time. Leather shoes are too sensitive to fit to buy online unless you already own the exact same model. Even then, Irish weather affects how leather behaves. If you must buy online, choose retailers with free returns and clear size guides. Brands like Clarks and Johnston & Murphy offer Irish-specific sizing charts. Never buy based on size alone - check width, last type, and material.

What’s the best time of year to buy leather shoes in Ireland?

Late winter or early autumn. In February and March, shops clear out winter stock - you’ll find discounts on quality brogues and boots. In September, before the rainy season hits, stores get new stock and often have promotions. Avoid July and August - that’s when tourists flood the shops, prices rise, and stock is thin. If you’re buying for winter, get them by October.