Old Coats in Ireland: A Guide to Historical Irish Outerwear Names

Walk through a museum in Dublin or browse an antique shop in Galway, and you’ll see garments that look familiar but carry strange names. You might spot a heavy woolen wrap labeled a béarnach or a long, hooded cloak called a brat. If you’ve ever wondered what were old coats called in Ireland, you’re not alone. The answer isn’t just one word-it’s a whole vocabulary of weather-proofing techniques developed over centuries to survive the Atlantic wind and rain.

This guide breaks down the specific names of historical Irish outerwear. We’ll look at why these items existed, how they differed from modern jackets, and where you can still find authentic pieces today. Whether you’re a historian, a reenactor, or just curious about your great-grandmother’s wardrobe, understanding these terms helps you appreciate the craftsmanship behind Irish fashion history.

The Big Blanket Coat: The Béarnach

If there is one garment that defines traditional Irish outerwear, it’s the béarnach, also known as the Great Coat. This wasn’t just a coat; it was a portable shelter. Made from heavy, unprocessed wool, often undyed or dyed with local plants like woad or moss, the béarnach was designed for one thing: survival in harsh weather.

Why call it a "great" coat? Because of its sheer size. These coats could be up to six yards wide when laid out flat. They had no buttons, zips, or pockets. Instead, you wore them by wrapping yourself in layers of thick wool. The fabric was so dense and oily (thanks to lanolin) that rain simply rolled off the surface. In the rural west of Ireland, particularly in counties like Mayo and Clare, farmers relied on these coats for decades because they didn’t rot easily and kept you warm even when damp.

You might hear people confuse the béarnach with a blanket. It’s close, but not quite right. A blanket is for sleeping; a béarnach is for living. It had armholes cut into it, allowing movement while keeping the body fully covered. Today, you can find replicas in heritage centers across the Aran Islands, where this style remained popular well into the 20th century.

The Hooded Cloak: The Brat

Before the béarnach became standard, another garment ruled the landscape: the brat. Think of this as the ancestor of the modern hoodie, but made entirely of wool. The brat was a rectangular piece of cloth, usually fringed at the edges, worn over the shoulders and fastened at the neck with a brooch or pin.

The key feature of the brat was its hood, or cowl. Unlike modern hoods attached to a jacket, the cowl on a brat was separate or integrated as a large, deep fold of fabric that could be pulled tight around the face. This design allowed for ventilation. If you got too hot walking uphill in County Kerry, you could loosen the cowl. If a storm hit, you pulled it tight.

The Traveler’s Wrap: The Safan

Not everyone wore the expensive, finely woven brat. For laborers, travelers, and those who needed something tough and cheap, there was the safan. This was essentially a coarse woolen shawl or poncho, often striped in earthy tones like brown, grey, or dark blue.

The safan was practical to the core. It had no sleeves and no complex tailoring. You threw it over your head and tied it at the waist with a rope or a simple belt. It doubled as a saddle blanket for horses and a bedroll for sleeping outdoors. In the 19th century, you’d see many men in Connacht wearing safans during market days. It’s less romantic than the brat, but it tells a more honest story of daily life in pre-industrial Ireland.

Victorian and Edwardian Styles: Frock Coats and Ulsters

As we move into the 1800s, Irish fashion started to align more with British trends, though local adaptations remained. If you’re looking at photos of your grandparents from the late Victorian era, you won’t see béarnachs anymore. Instead, you’ll see frock coats and Ulster coats.

The frock coat was formal wear. It was fitted, buttoned all the way up, and made from fine black or dark grey wool. Men wore these to church in Dublin or Cork. But for working outside, the Ulster coat was king. Named after the province of Ulster, this coat featured a special capelet-a short layer of fabric over the shoulders-that added extra protection against rain without restricting arm movement. Many Irish fishermen and postmen favored the Ulster for its durability and water-shedding capabilities.

Women’s outerwear shifted too. Long, fitted coats with velvet collars became common in cities. In rural areas, however, the transition was slower. Some women continued to use modified versions of the brat well into the early 1900s, especially if they couldn’t afford tailored store-bought coats.

Where to Find Authentic Old Coats in Ireland Today

You don’t need a time machine to see these garments. Several places in Ireland keep the tradition alive. If you’re planning a trip or looking to buy, here are the best spots:

• The National Museum of Ireland - Decorative Arts & History (Dublin): Their collection includes original 17th-century brats and 19th-century béarnachs. Seeing the weave quality up close changes your perspective on what "handmade" really means.
• Aran Heritage Centre (Inis Mór): Located on the largest Aran Island, this center explains the knitting and weaving traditions. While famous for sweaters, they also showcase traditional cloaks and coats used by islanders.
• Antique Shops in Dublin and Cork: Places like Wexford Antiques or markets in English Market, Cork often have vintage tweed coats. Look for labels from Irish mills like Donegal Tweed or Harris Tweed (which is Scottish but heavily used in Ireland).
• Heritage Festivals: Events like the Kilmainham Gaol Historical Tours or reenactments at Newgrange sometimes feature actors wearing period-accurate outerwear. It’s a great way to see how the garments moved and functioned.

Modern Revival: Why Vintage Irish Coats Are Trending Again

Interestingly, the demand for these old styles has surged recently. Modern Irish designers are reimagining the béarnach and brat using contemporary fabrics. Brands based in Galway and Belfast now sell "heritage-inspired" coats that mimic the wrap-style closure of the béarnach but add modern linings and pockets.

Why the revival? Partly nostalgia, partly sustainability. Fast fashion wears out quickly. A traditional wool coat, properly cared for, lasts a lifetime. There’s also a cultural pride element. Wearing a coat that references the brat connects the wearer to a lineage of resilience. It’s a statement that says, "I know where I come from," without saying a word.

If you’re shopping for a vintage coat in Ireland, check the label. True Irish tweed will feel heavier and coarser than mass-produced polyester blends. Smell it-real wool has a distinct, slightly lanolin scent. Check the stitching. Hand-stitched seams are irregular; machine stitches are perfect. Those imperfections are proof of authenticity.

Care Tips for Vintage Irish Wool Coats

Owning an old coat is a responsibility. Wool attracts moths, and humidity in Ireland can lead to mold if stored poorly. Here’s how to keep your heirloom safe:

1. Brush Regularly: Use a horsehair brush to remove dirt and dust. This prevents grit from grinding into the fibers.
2. Air It Out: After wearing, hang the coat in a dry, airy space. Never put a damp coat straight into a closet.
3. Use Cedar Blocks: Avoid mothballs-they smell terrible and can damage fabrics. Cedar blocks repel insects naturally.
4. Clean Professionally: Do not wash wool coats in a home machine. Take them to a specialist cleaner who understands delicate natural fibers.