Pick Stitching on Suits: Should You Choose It in Ireland?

Quick Take

• Pick stitching adds subtle texture without bold lines.
• Great for Irish weddings, business meetings, and St.Patrick’s Day events.
• Costs 10‑20% more than a plain suit, but the upgrade is visible.
• Work with local tailors in Dublin, Galway or Cork for authentic craftsmanship.
• Maintain by gentle steam; avoid harsh dry‑cleaning cycles.

When you’re shopping for a new suit in Ireland, the question of whether to add pick stitching often pops up. You might have seen it on a model at BrownThomas in Dublin, on a groom’s outfit at a wedding in Killarney, or even on a sharp‑dressed man at a St.Patrick’s Day brunch in Galway. Pick stitching is a low‑key detailing technique that can tip a good suit into great, but it also adds cost and care considerations. This guide walks you through what pick stitching really is, when it makes sense for Irish occasions, and how to get the right finish without breaking the bank.

What exactly is pick stitching?

Pick stitching is a thin line of stitching that follows the grain of the fabric, usually placed along the edges of a suit’s lapel, pocket, or button placket. Unlike bold top‑stitching, which sits on top of the seam, pick stitching is sewn just inside the seam, so the line is subtle and often only visible up close. It’s especially popular on fine wool and tweed fabrics because the stitching can pick up the texture of the cloth, creating a faint, elegant highlight.

How does pick stitching change the look and feel of a suit?

First, it adds a quiet visual cue that the garment was tailored with care. In a sea of plain, off‑the‑rack suits, a suit with pick stitching signals that the wearer values detail. Second, because the thread sits inside the seam, the suit retains a sleek silhouette - no extra bulk or raised seams that can disrupt a slim cut. Finally, on fabrics like Irish tweed, the stitching can echo the natural ridges of the cloth, giving the suit a cohesive, textured appearance that feels both traditional and contemporary.

When is pick stitching appropriate in Ireland?

Irish culture loves an excuse to dress up, whether it’s a wedding in County Kerry, a corporate gala in Dublin’s IFSC, or the annual St.Patrick’s Day parade in Cork. Here are the top scenarios where pick stitching shines:

• Irish wedding - Grooms often choose a subtle enhancement that looks sharp on camera without competing with the bride’s lace.
• Business presentations - A suit that whisper‑stitches its lapels conveys professionalism without shouting for attention.
• Formal evening events - Think of a night at the National Concert Hall in Dublin; the low‑key detailing pairs well with dark colours and polished shoes.
• St.Patrick’s Day celebrations - While many opt for a casual shirt and tie, some prefer a crisp suit that holds a modest Irish‑green accent in the stitching.

Cost and practicality in the Irish market

Adding pick stitching isn’t free. Most Irish tailors charge an extra €30‑€60 for the service, depending on the fabric and the number of lines. In major cities like Dublin and Galway, you’ll find bespoke shops such as Patrick’s Tailors in the city centre that include pick stitching in their standard package for a modest surcharge. In smaller towns, the cost might be slightly higher because the work is done by hand rather than a semi‑automated seam‑machine.

When budgeting, consider the suit’s base price. A high‑quality wool suit from BrownThomas starts around €800; add €50 for pick stitching, and you’re still well within the range of a well‑dressed Irish professional. For students or recent grads, a mid‑range option from Irish brand Dundrum (about €450) plus stitching can be a smart investment for the next few years.

Choosing the right pick stitching for your suit

Not every pick stitching works for every fabric or colour. Here’s a quick decision guide:

1. Fabric type: Wool and tweed take the stitching well; lightweight linen may not show the detail clearly.
2. Thread colour: Match the thread to the suit colour for a hidden effect, or go one shade lighter for a faint highlight. Dark navy suit with a deep navy thread stays discrete, while a charcoal suit with a subtle grey thread catches the eye.
3. Line placement: Classic lapel pick stitching works on single‑breasted jackets. For double‑breasted styles, consider stitching the button placket instead.
4. Personal style: If you prefer minimalist looks, stick to one line on the lapel. If you like a bit of flair, add a second line on the pocket edge.

Talk to your tailor about the bespoke tailoring process. In Galway, for instance, Tailor Vicky offers a free fabric swatch and stitching demo so you can see the effect before committing.

DIY versus professional - why a local tailor matters

Some online retailers advertise “pick stitching kits,” but the result rarely matches a professional finish. Hand‑sewing the stitch inside the seam requires precision; a slight mis‑alignment can create puckering or uneven lines that ruin the suit’s look. Irish tailors have honed these skills over generations, especially those who work with traditional fabrics like Donegal tweed. Getting the work done at a reputable shop guarantees consistency, proper thread tension, and a clean finish that lasts through the Irish climate’s humidity and rain.

Comparison: Pick Stitching vs. No Stitching vs. Top Stitching

Caring for a suit with pick stitching

Irish weather can be damp, so proper care keeps the stitching crisp:

• Steam gently: Hold a steamer a few inches away and move it smoothly; this relaxes the fibers without flattening the stitch line.
• Avoid high‑heat irons: Direct heat can melt the thread. If you must iron, use a pressing cloth and low temperature.
• Professional dry‑cleaning: Choose a reputable service that advertises “hand‑stitched garments” - they’ll treat the suit with a low‑temperature cycle.
• Storage: Use a breathable cloth cover rather than a plastic bag to prevent mildew in damp Irish basements.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does pick stitching make a suit look more formal?

Yes, because it adds a subtle cue of craftsmanship without overtly bold lines. In Irish business settings, that extra touch is often interpreted as polished professionalism.

Can I add pick stitching to an already‑made suit?

Most tailors can re‑open seams and insert pick stitching, but it may involve a small alteration fee. In Dublin, tailors typically quote a €20‑€40 retrofit charge.

What thread colour should I choose for a navy suit?

A thread that matches the navy exactly keeps the effect discreet. If you want a faint highlight, choose a slightly lighter shade of blue - the difference shows under good lighting without clashing.

Is pick stitching suitable for summer linen suits?

Less so. Linen’s loose weave doesn’t hold a fine stitch well, and the detail can look uneven. For summer, stick to clean, unstitched linen or consider contrast top stitching on a lightweight cotton blend.

Where can I get a reliable quote for pick stitching in Ireland?

Visit local tailors in major cities - Dublin’s BrownThomas, Galway’s Tailor Vicky, or Cork’s Trim & Tailor. Most will give a free consultation and a written estimate before any work begins.

Bottom line: pick stitching is a modest upgrade that pays off in the right Irish contexts. It signals attention to detail, works beautifully with traditional fabrics, and can be budget‑friendly if you shop smart. Whether you’re heading to a wedding in Killarney, a boardroom in the Docklands, or a St.Patrick’s Day dinner in Galway, a well‑stitched suit will have you looking sharp without shouting for attention.